Lunch above the “City of Palms”

The past two weeks or so, we’ve been bouncing around Jerusalem and making a few excursions to outlying areas.  Yesterday was one of those excursions, and a kickin’ lunch view to boot.

Enter Tel es-Sultan, Jericho, City of Palms, and the Mt. of Temptation (the first three being the same, the later is a separate entity).

Tel es-Sultan, as the site of Biblical Old Testament Jericho, has seen excavations by some of the biggest names in archeological history.  Seemingly fitting, along with the big names, it has also been a site of flashy archaeological debate for many years.  We shall not go into flashy debate items here.  Our intent is to provide a few high level shots of the site (pun intended), relate its setting to Biblical texts, and provide insight to the good food at the mountain next door 🙂

The shots below were taken from the “Mt. of Temptation,” just west of Jericho.  As the name implies, this is the traditional location where Jesus was “tempted” by the devil (Matthew 4), and a Greek Orthodox monastery atop the mountain is perched there to remember this tradition (this tradition has no relation to Old Testament history).

From the photos blow, you can see the setting (albeit through the desert summer haze), a good visual backdrop to verses mentioning geographical and physical aspects of Jericho’s setting it in Biblical texts.  A word about the cables in the photos later in the post.

Jericho and Jordan Valley from Mt. of Temptation

Closer shot of the Jericho tel from the Mt. of Temptation. The building that is most prominent, between the cables just before they reach the tower, is just in front of the tel. The tel is what appears to be a long sandy/grayish hill or mound. It extends slightly to the right, you can see a second gondola/cable tower (with gondolas just in front of it) covering the southern edge of the tel. It extends left to the group of buildings at the end.

Numbers 22:1- “Then the children of Israel moved, and camped in the plains of Moab on the side of the Jordan across from Jericho –“

From the angle of the first photo, you can see two interesting things.  One is the Jordan River Valley, or the Great Rift Valley as is it sometimes referred to.  In the bottom right corner, you see the edge of the Judean Hill Country dropping off into the Jordan Valley (same mountains from which the photo is shot).  The Jordan River resides in the bottom of the valley, thus, “on the side of the Jordan across from Jericho.”  Number two concerns the north end of the Dead Sea.  It’s hard to see in this photo, again, because of the summer haze, but halfway up the photo on the right side, where the land appears to become sky, a portion of that blue is actually water of the Dead Sea.  This provides another interesting point in that just above the Dead Sea on the other side of the Jordan is known as the “plains of Moab.”  So the “plains of Moab” and “across the Jordan,” are two things we can see in this photo, described from Numbers 22:1.

Deuteronomy 34:3- “…the South, and the plain of the Valley of Jericho, the city of palm trees, as far as Zoar –“

Below is a shot of palm trees from the tel, along with other items of agriculture.  Given the heat and barrenness of this area, you can certainly see were springs of water (or rivers) make a difference, especially when harnessed for irrigation.

Palm trees and other agricultural items from Jericho. You can also see the mountains of Jordan in the background, across the Jordan River Valley.

Joshua 2:16- “And she said to them, ‘Get to the mountain, lest the pursuers meet you. Hide there three days, until the pursuers have returned. Afterward you may go your way.’”

This verse is in the context of Joshua sending the spies to Jericho and their interactions with Rahab.  This verse is where she helps them escape after it is suspected by some in the city (who informed the king), that Israelite spies had come to investigate the city.

The photo below is looking south from the Temptation Mount and provides a good profile view of mountains they could have hidden in.  The Judean hills “behind” Jericho to the west would have been a logical hiding place, since the search party would have probably looked east, toward where Israel was encamped across the Jordan.

Profile Shot Looking South of Judean Hills

Lastly, there was a mention above about the cables in the photos from the top Mt. of Temptation.  While Mt. of Temptation has the monastery on the side of the mountain, it also contains a few shops, a restaurant, and a snack bar or two.  How do you get to that spot on the side of the mountain?  Yep, that’s where the cables come into play.  For a nominal fee, you can ride a snazzy set of cable cars up to Mt. of Temptation.  There you will be tempted by an assortment of souvenirs and food.  We failed the food portion of the test, as you see below.

This view show the restaurant in the center, cable cars to the right side, and the monastery staircase is visible to the left along with the edge of the monastery buildings.

Musakhan Chicken- Marinated half chicken, grilled with special summaq, sauteed onion, and served on Tabooun bread

Chicken breast cooked in lemon sauce and tarragon

So, if you ever make it to the top of Mt. Temptation, soak up the views that help you see the surrounding of Jericho and the Jordan Valley, and pay a visit to the Sultan Restaurant.  It’s not as pricy as you would expect, for a touristy restaurant, and provides stunning views of the Jericho and the Jordan Valley (if you can acquire a table out on the terrace).

A Few of Our Favorite (Unexpected) Things

When you walk around Jerusalem, there are lots of things you expect to see. Cathedrals, cats, pilgrims, and mosques—minarets, cramped markets, and fantastic costumes. However, it’s the things that you don’t expect that either escape your notice altogether, or remain indelibly stamped on your psyche forever.

We saw this cute three-wheeler on the hotel roof, but what Spider Man, Mickey Mouse, and Super Lion have to do with one another evades us at the moment.

Spiderman, Mickey, and Super Lion–An Unstoppable Team!

I’m mildly suspicious of a restaurant that claims an authentic Mexican experience, when they misspell the Spanish words.

Not to be mistaken for Pollo Loco.

Who doesn’t fancy a spot of cake? Especially when it’s English!

I would try it, but for fear of crushing disappointment if it turned out to not be delicious cake.

I never expected that one would have to be told this on a crowded, traffic-laden thoroughfare. I’m sure there’s a story behind it, though.

Seriously, don’t play soccer in traffic.

We should probably eat here so that our submersion into the culture will be complete.

What kind of music do they play in there?

Mamma never wanted you to get a tattoo, but how could she say “No” to one that’s from the Holy Land parlor?

How could this not end well?

We really have nothing to add to this one.

A picture worth a thousand words

Checking out the local artwork is always a unique cultural experience.

Jerusalem was celebrating its Formula 1 race.

We saw this painting of the Western Wall, and then realized something important was missing from the cityscape.

While we’re at it, we never thought we’d run into Formula 1 racing in Jerusalem at all.

The track is ready!

Some of the vents are custom made in the Jewish Quarter.

Special vents in the Jewish Quarter

The cats run the gamut—from sleek fat cats to ragged scrappers. Some are just more photogenic than others.

Sort of the feline junior high yearbook photo

And, last, but not least, we’d like to take this opportunity to commemorate the moment our trip took a turn for the horrific. We first ran into this guy in Tiberias in September 2012. About 10 days later, we saw him again near Lachish. Yesterday, we turned the corner around the hotel, and there he was, staring into our souls.

Just when you thought it was safe–Creepy Teddy Bear Stare, Part 3

Jerusalem, Western Wall and the Temple Mount

We have been in Jerusalem a little over a week now.  The first half of this time was spent using Jerusalem as a base for exploring areas of the Shephelah and slightly beyond.  The past few days we have been in the Old City, exploring all its “nooks and crannies” (and wow, are there a lot of them).

Western Wall and the Temple Mount

This shot was taken a few nights ago of the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock together.  This view is interesting in having two iconic holy sites, one for Judaism (the wall), and one for Islam (the dome), so close together.  The contents of the dome also have significance for both of them, as well.

First, the construction of the wall is interesting in that it is part of a retaining wall holding up the base of the Temple Mount.  This retaining wall is from the “Second Temple,” as it is commonly called, reconstructed by Herod the Great (around 19 B.C., possibly finished at a later time).  The actual upper surface of the Temple Mount is not to be accessed by observant Jews, as somewhere on this upper surface, the actual temple would have resided.  This temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 A.D.  Not knowing the exact location of the temple and it holy places may cause one to tread upon the sacred ground only the High Priest could access.  At a minimum, there are also purification practices which must take place before entering the temple area.  Modern secular Jews can ascend to the Temple Mount freely, if they desire.

Given these conditions, this is why the wall has become the active sacred worship site for modern observant Jews.

Western Wall

Next, the Temple Mount and Islam.

Up on the temple mount, there are quite a few items central to modern Islam.  First, what is said to be the most photographed icon of Jerusalem, the Dome of the Rock.

Dome of the Rock

Contained within this dome lies a section of ancient chiseled bedrock, commonly called the “Foundation Stone.”  This stone actually has significant traditional meaning to Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.  For Judaism, some believe this is the actual location of the Most Holy Place of the destroyed temple.  For Christianity, if this is the temple location, is bears significance because of the visits Jesus paid to the temple grounds.  For many in Islam, it is from this spot that Muhammad ascended into heaven.  The qualifiers of “some” and “many” are used here.  If you do any reading on these traditions, you will see that there is debate among members of all these religions as to exactly where and how all of these events transpired for their respective traditions.  Also, there are many (many) more traditions associated with these spots, these are just the most well known.

To refocus on Islam and the Temple Mount – today when you visit or read about the Temple Mount, it is usually the Islamic history and culture that is noticed and pondered.  The Temple Mount is actually under control of an Islamic Waqf (an Islamic Trust), while Israeli police provide security for the site.  Because of this, along with the presence, design, and artistry of the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque, Islam comes to the forefront when visiting the Temple Mount.  The Al-Aqsa Mosque is located across from the Dome of the Rock.  It is one of the world’s oldest mosques and is considered the third holiest site of Islam.  It has a capacity for over 5,000 worshipers and has held its historical significance in Islam since the late 7th century A.D.

Al-Aqsa Mosque

These icons are some of the foremost to the world’s major religions.  They provide an interesting backdrop to these cultures that can at times be so different, yet share the same icons, and find themselves at such a close proximity.

Military Strongholds and the Judaean Wilderness

Have you ever stood in a location and thought to yourself, “Wow, I could totally hide an army here!” or “This place would be SO easy to defend!”?

Perhaps not.

But if you did, you would know there are several things to consider when one is choosing a militaristic abode—especially if you 1) are on the run, 2) will ever have a longing for food or water, 3) need a defensible position, or 4) need to house an army, be it domestic or military. Many of the men (and a notable woman or two) of the Bible were of a marshal disposition. It’s an intriguing exercise to try to look at the places they have been through their eyes, and few places are easier than in the Judaean Wilderness.

Ein Gedi, a Wadi Oasis in the Desert

Ein Gedi (lit. “Kid Spring”) has been used since roughly around the time man figured out how to stack one rock on top of another. So why did David possibly wend his way here to escape Saul? Much like the famous canyons of our own Wild West, an entire army could lie hidden within this expansive fold in the Judaean Wilderness. Rebel soldiers and kings alike could relax among the many caves and waterfalls this exquisite oasis provides—all while taking advantage of the edible wildlife and surrounding agricultural communities. Defensively, a network of lookout stations would have a direct line of sight from the lofty Shulammit Spring to distant mesas, such as Masada. Offensively, a mere pittance of soldiers could defend the narrow entrances to the wadi.

The Shulammit Spring lookout at Ein Gedi, with clear line of sight to Masada

Which brings us to Masada. Some scholars consider this a viable location for one of David’s desert strongholds. Mentioned especially in I Samuel 22:4, he could have easily passed to Moab from the lisan of the Dead Sea and back to his matsuwd (Heb. “stronghold”).  How well Masada and the wilderness proved to be in the defense department is even more evident as Herod the Great rose to power. Fearful of his safety, he built (and rebuilt) many fortresses on both sides of the Jordan River, including Herodium, Masada, and Machaerus. Signals from these fortified palaces could be seen from miles around—and any approaching enemy would be spotted from the lofty plateaus. One man alone could each have held the tiny paths leading up the mountain. Unfortunately, this made these palatial fortifications rather easy to besiege, as the fewer the entrances, the fewer the exits to guard.

Masada was easy to defend, and thus easy to besiege.

Beginning Week 3

We’ve continued our tour of the country, moved north to south, and now we have begun our central campaign.

Negev

The Negev is the desert region in Southern Israel, extending down to the Gulf of Aqaba. It is a beautiful region, with deserts and makhteshim—the “craters” caused by soft mineral eroding from beneath harder rock, causing the upper layer to collapse.

View of Makhtesh Ramon in the Negev

Arad

Originally built in the Bronze Age, Arad is one of those cities in Israel that has always been there. The lower city excavations are Canaanite, featuring dwellings and palaces. The upper are mostly of Israelite origin, with a Hellenistic tower built in the middle of the fortifications.

Israelite Fortifications at Arad

Be’er Sheva

Beersheba is a oft-mentioned city in the Bible, from Abraham’s covenant with Abimelech to describing Israel’s territory as reaching from “Dan to Beersheba.” The tell itself commands a fabulous view of the surrounding country, which was necessary for the embattled city to defend itself.

Ancient City at Tel Be’er Sheva

Ashkelon

A tell that is near and dear to our hearts, we returned to take a few photographs and recall an ancient site that is best known as one of the Philistine pentapolis. Throughout its long history, this city has been an important port town, and is well known for its wine and oil.

Ashkelon, by the Sea

Ashdod

Another member of the pentapolis, and now a cow pasture, Ashdod was the original resting place of the Ark of the Covenant after its capture by the Philistines. They learned a rather uncomfortable lesson from that incident, and hastily sent it home. It is also described as participating in sea-trade, due to its control of a port 4 miles away from the land-locked city.

Ashdod, Now a Cow Pasture

Lachish

Lachish is an old favorite. As a city that was old before the Israelites conquered it, it came under control of Judah, and was established as a fortified city by Rehoboam, the final defense before an enemy could reach Jerusalem. It acted its part during the siege of Sennacharib, who destroyed the city and publicized the event through a series of reliefs in Nineveh.

Fortress at Lachish

Mareshah

Another of Rehoboam’s fortified cities, Mareshah was the site of a battle between King Asa of Judah and Zerah the Ethiopian. However, the city was taken by the Edomites after Judah’s fall to Babylon, and remained a vibrant city until it rotted away under the Hasmoneans. Today, visitors can explore many of the incredible caves under the city, including subterranean olive presses.

Subterranean Olive Oil Press at Mareshah

Socoh

Positioned in the Elah valley, near Khirbet Qeiyafa, Socoh hosted the Philistines as they drew themselves up in battle array before the Israelite encampment at Qeiyafa. It was between these tells that David and Goliath had their famous “match,” and then the Philistines were pursued up the valley as they fled the wrath of their conquerors.

Tel Socho

Gath (Tel es-Safi)

Speaking of Goliath, number 3 in our tour of the pentapolis was Tel es-Safi, commonly identified as Goliath’s hometown of Gath. It is a unique irony to note that the Brook of Elah runs along the foot of the tell—a ways downstream, it betrayed the giant by yielding a smooth stone to a young shepherd.

Tel es-Safi, Commonly Considered as Gath

A Day in Bet She’an

The ancient city of Bet She’an (Beit Shean, Beth Shean, Beth Shan, Bethshean, etc.) first appears in the Biblical narrative during the period of conquest, when the city was given to Manasseh as part of her territory. The tell is beautifully strategic, located at the junction of the Jezreel and Jordan Valleys and commanding a fantastic view of the surrounding countryside. However, Manasseh allowed this fortress city to slip through her fingers due to the iron chariots of the Canaanite inhabitants.

Bet She’an at the Junction of the Jezreel and Jordan Valleys, Taken from Gilboa

What Manasseh gave up, the Philistines were happy to take. In I Samuel 29, the Philistines gear up at Aphek for another row with the Israelites. This is where they rather irritably sent David, their supposed ally, away. The battle against Israel was brutal, and, in I Samuel 31, the royal family falls at Mt. Gilboa. In triumph, the Philistines hang the headless bodies of Saul, Jonathan, and the rest on the fortress walls at Beth Shan. The men of Jabesh Gilead recalled Saul’s kindness and removed the bodies in the night—a valiant deed, as they covered miles of open territory and scaled the side of a fortified and guarded city. David would go on to take Beth Shean and Solomon would place the city under the administration of Baana.

Israelite Fortress at the Summit of Bet She’an

Time passed, and Beth Shean eventually came under the control of Alexander the Great, who settled his garrison of Scythians here, thus changing its name to Scythopolis. The city would later be caught in the crossfire between the Ptolemies and Seleucids, and Josephus gives the account that High Priest Jonathan was kidnapped there and later murdered—one of the events leading to the Maccabean Revolt. In 63 BC, Pompey gathered Beth Shean under his wings as a city of the Decapolis. It was beautified, with theaters, amphitheaters, a cardo, bathhouses, and a rather nice public toilet.

At Look at Scythopolis from the Tell

Beth Shean was never really abandoned over the millennia, though the site of many a bloody conflict, even through the 21^st century. Today, the tell can still be seen for miles around, just south of the Spring of Harod.

Bet She’an over Ancient Scythopolis

Arbel, Tiberus, Hazor, Nazareth, Jezreel Valley, Tel Jezreel, Bet Shean, Qumran, En Gedi (Photo Summary for the past week, last Tuesday – this Wednesday)

We have been covering a lot of ground over the past week, mostly in northern Israel, but some in the south as well.

Here are some photo highlights.

Mt. Arbel, in Northern Israel-
This is one of the interesting features on the northwestern shores of the Sea of Galilee.  It pairs with Mt. Nitia to form a pass which has been used over the ages to pass from areas west of Galilee (such as Nazareth) to the sea and locations north of the sea, such as Capernaum.  The first photo is from the top of Arbel, looking down on the Sea of Galilee and the second photo looks from Arbel across the pass to Mt. Nitia.  You can see the trail going around Arbel disappearing around the side of the mountain where the cliff drops off to the pass in the valley floor.

From Mt. Arbel, overlooking the Sea of Galilee

Looking from Mt. Arbel across the pass to Mt. Nitia

Tiberias Mosque, in the city of Tiberius on the west central shores of the Sea of Galilee –
While not ancient, this beautiful old Mosque stands tucked away in one of the shopping centers of Tiberias, one block from the sea-front promenade.  It is the Al-Amari mosque, built in the 1730s. Tradition holds that its construction was funded by the local Jewish population, who was thankful for the sheik’s protection.  Had we not stumbled through a corridor looking for a shortcut, we would have never known it was there.

Al-Amari mosque, in Tiberias.

Tel Hazor, ancient mound north of the Galilee region-
This tel is packed with many good layers of ancient history and is mentioned numerous times in Old Testament accounts.  This first photo is of current excavations going on there.  Wish the excavation crew had been there so we could ask them about the walls in the photo (we were there in the afternoon, while most dig sites are active in the morning).  The second photo is looking out of the Solomonic gates at Hazor.  These gates date to the 10th century B.C. and are similar to those found at Megiddo and Gezer.

Excavations at Hazor

Solomonic Gates at Hazor

Nazareth, Central Northern Israel, on the northern edge of the Jezreel valley-
We briefly popped into the city of Nazareth.  Most people visit Nazareth and its large churches built over “Holy sites;” however, we were looking for excavations unearthed just a few years ago with
construction of a new building.  The excavations are pictured below and show 1st century architecture (contemporary with the time of Jesus).

First-Century Dwelling at Nazareth

Jezreel Valley-
View of the Jezreel Valley from the El-Muhraqa (Carmelite) monastery. The Jezreel Valley is the defining feature which cuts at a southwest angle across the northern portion of Israel.  Many accounts of ancient history play out in this valley as it creates a focal point of travel, trade routes, and military movement throughout ancient (and modern) history.

View of the Jezreel valley a few miles from the coast

Bet She’an, at the southeast end of the Jezreel Valley, bordering the Jordan River valley-
With extensive occupation from Canaanite to Byzantine times, and times in-between (Egyptian influence, Philistine, Israelites, Greek/Hellenstic, Romans) this is an impressive ancient site with vast remains at the bottom of the tel, mostly from the Greeks and Romans. From Roman baths, to colonnaded streets, to a theater with seating for 7,000, this ancient city has it all.  This photo is from the tel (Canaanite/Israelite portion) looking down on the Greek/Roman/Byzantine remains.

View from the tel at Bet She’an, looking down at mostly Hellenistic and Roman ruins

Tel Jezreel-
On the southern edge of the Jezrell Valley, just up the valley from Bet She’an, is the ancient tel of Jezreel.  Unlike many of the popular sites, this tel is not in a controlled access national park, it’s just
a roadside stop.  We walked around on the top of this site (now a cow pasture) looking at what ruins were there.  Here is a photo of some of the ruins on the tel (not sure what they are or what time period they are from).  After the fact, we found out that there were current excavations going on this year, concerning Iron Age areas of the tel. We certainly didn’t come across recent excavations where we were walking around.  Many, including those who have excavated here in the past, associate this tel with the Iron Age settlement associated with Jezreel of the Biblical account, connected to Ahab, Jezebel, and Jehu, all of the Divided Kingdom period of Israel’s history.

Ruins at Tel Jezreel

Qumran, on the top of the western edge of the Dead Sea-
After this we wrapped up our travels in the northern part of the country and move south (directionally and elevation), down to the Dead Sea.  Our first stop was Qumran, where the famous Dead Sea Scrolls were found.  Below is the typical cave photo you see from the Qumran National Park.

Qumran Cave

Ein Gedi, moving down the western Dead Sea coast-
Our next stop the following day was the springs of Ein Gedi.  This is often associated with the Wilderness of Engedi, where Saul and David had interaction in 1 Samuel 23 & 24.  It is also mentioned at later times in other sources, such as Josephus, when he talks about the siege at Masada, mentioning other villages that were plundered about the same time.  The terrain here is rugged and the springs and waterfalls bring an oasis to the desert.  The first photo is from the top of the largest waterfall in the series of waterfalls in the national park of Ein Gedi (this is a lot higher than it looks in the photo, note the Dead Sea in the distance….it’s hazy, but you can see it).  The water is flowing just under the first photo and the second photo is the view from the bottom of the falls.  It was about a 45-minute hike up to the top, not bad, except that it was up the side of the ravine and it was about 90 degrees (at 8 a.m.).  By the time we were done with our 4-hour hike around the park, it was about 100
degrees (12:30 p.m.).

View of the Wadi David at En Gedi, looking toward the Dead Sea (standing just above the “David Falls”)

View of the waterfall from the bottom

It was a busy week, to say the least 🙂

Masada Sunrise

View of the sunrise from Masada, Herod’s ancient fortress.

It is rising over the mountains of modern-day Jordan and the Dead Sea.

Photo shot about 9 hours ago.

Masada Sunrise

Aphek and the Importance of Location

The other day, we spent a bit of time at Tel Afek, the site of…Aphek, also called Antipatris.

Ottoman Fortress at Tel Afek

Biblically, we first see Aphek as one of the cities taken by the conquest and given to the tribe of Asher. By this time, it was already old, having been controlled by Egypt for quite some time. In I Samuel 4, the Philistines were encamped at Aphek when they routed Israel’s army and took the Ark of the Covenant as spoil. Despite the fact that that incident ended rather unpleasantly for them, they again set up base there to fight the Israelites–though, for some reason, the princes of the Philistines protested against David’s presence in their army.

Egyptian Palace at Tel Afek

History tells us that Herod would eventually receive Aphek as part of his kingdom, which he expanded, adding a Roman forum and cardo through the city. He renamed it Antipatris, after his father. It was thus to ancient Aphek that the chief Roman captain of the Antonia, Claudias Lysias, spirited Paul away when the Jews made their assassination plot against him (Acts 23).

The Roman Cardo at Tel Afek

But why was Aphek so hotly contested? From its foundation in the Chalcolithic Period (4500-3000 BC) to the Ottoman empire, it is clear why it was a popular piece of real estate. Located at the headwaters of the Yarkon River, Aphek sat on a strategic point where the coastal routes–including the Via Maris–were blocked by the Yarkon and its surrounding swampland, and funneled through a narrow pass towards Megiddo and the Jezreel Valley. Whoever controlled Aphek controlled the pass and any trade or armies moving through it.

Via Maris Funneled by Aphek
(A BIBARCH™ Photo courtesy of High Top Media™. Copyright ©1997 High Top Media™. All Rights Reserved.)

And, as a side note, the local donkey population at Tel Afek is also worth viewing. They are as curious about you as you are of them.

Citizen of the Local Donkey Population

Sea of Galilee Sunrise

Here is the sun rising over the Sea of Galilee this morning, about 3 hours ago.  It was a calm and peaceful scene, quite beautiful as well.  We’ve been traveling around the Galilee area for a day or two and are about to move into the Nazareth/Jezreel Valley area.

Sunrise over the Sea of Galilee